An outside tap makes watering the garden, washing the car or cleaning bins far easier. It is a straightforward job for a plumber, but a proper installation includes a few things that DIY kits sometimes skip.
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Why a check valve matters
Water regulations require outside taps to be protected against backflow, so dirty water from a hose cannot be siphoned back into the drinking water supply. In practice, that means fitting a double check valve, either on the pipe or built into the tap. Many cheap kits leave this out.
Include an isolation valve
An isolation valve inside the house lets you shut off and drain the tap for winter without turning off the whole house. It is one of the most useful parts of the installation.
Choosing the location
- Close to where you will use it most: the garden, the front drive or a side return
- Near an existing cold-water pipe, usually behind the kitchen sink, to keep the pipe run short
- Away from electrical outlets and lights
- Ideally not on the coldest, most exposed wall
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Frost protection
The pipe through the wall should be lagged, and the tap should be easy to isolate and drain. In very exposed spots, a frost-free tap is worth considering.
Hot and cold outside taps
If you wash dogs, cars or patio furniture regularly, a mixer outside tap with hot and cold is possible. It needs a hot supply nearby and suitable valves.
How long does outside tap installation take?
A standard outside tap usually takes one to two hours, including drilling through the wall, connecting to the supply, fitting the valves and testing.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need permission for an outside tap?
Not usually for a house. In a leasehold flat, check your lease, as external walls often belong to the freeholder.
Will an outside tap increase my water bill?
Only by the water you use. Fit a trigger gun on hoses to avoid waste.
Can you add an outside tap to a flat?
Often, yes, for ground-floor flats or balconies, subject to permission and a suitable supply.
